The Coop Trap
Categories: TRAPS FOR FEATHERED GAME.This is another excellent device for the capture of birds and large
feathered game, and is used to a considerable extent by trappers
throughout the country. Like the brick trap, it secures its victims
without harm and furnishes the additional advantage of good ventilation
for the encaged unfortunate. Any ordinary coop may be used in the
construction of this trap, although the homely one we illustrate
is most commonly e
manufacture. It also does away with the troublesome necessity of
carrying a coop to the trapping ground, as it can be made in a
very few minutes with common rough hewn twigs by the clever use
of the jack knife. The only remaining requisites consist of a few
yards of very stout Indian twine, several small squares of brown
pasteboard, a dozen tacks and a number of pieces of board five
inches square, each one having a hole through its centre, as our
engraving (b) indicates. Having these, the young trapper starts
out with material sufficient for several coops, and if he is smart
will find no difficulty in making and setting a dozen traps in a
forenoon.
In constructing the coop, the first thing to be done is to cut
four stout twigs about an inch in thickness and fifteen inches
in length and tie them together at the corners, letting the knot
come on the inside as our illustration (a) explains and leaving
a loose length of about two feet of string from each corner. This
forms the base of the coop. Next collect from a number of twigs of
about the same thickness, and from them select two more corresponding
in length to the bottom pieces. Having placed the base of the coop
on the ground, and collected the strings inside proceed to lay
the two selected sticks across the ends of the
uppermost two of the square, and directly above the lower two.
Another pair of twigs exactly similar in size should then be cut
and laid across the ends of the last two, and directly above the
second set of the bottom portion, thus forming two squares of equal
size, one directly over the other. The next pair of sticks should
be a trifle shorter than the previous ones and should be placed a
little inside the square. Let the next two be of the same size as
the last and also rest a little inside of those beneath them, thus
forming the commencement of the conical shape which our engraving
presents. By thus continuing alternate layers of the two sticks
cob-house fashion, each layer being closer than the one previous,
the pyramid will be easily and quickly formed. After ten or a dozen
sets have been laid in place, the arm should be introduced into
the opening at the top, and the four cords drawn out, letting each
one lay along its inside corner of the pyramid. Taking the strings
loosely in the left hand and having the twigs in readiness, proceed
to build up the sides until the opening at the top is reduced to
only four or five inches across. The square board will now come
into play. Pass the ends of the cords through the hole in its centre
and rest the edge of the board on the top pair of sticks, taking
care that it is the tip of the grain of the wood instead of its
side, as otherwise it would be likely to crack from the pressure
that is about to be brought upon it. Have ready a stout peg of
hard wood, and laying it over the hole in the board, and between
the strings, proceed to tie the latter as tightly as possible over
it. By now turning the peg, the cords will be twisted and tightened
and the various pieces of the coops will be drawn together with
great firmness, in which state they may be secured by the aid of
a tack driven in the top board against the end of the peg as shown
at (b). Thus we have a neat and serviceable coop, which will
last for many seasons. To set the affair it is necessary to cut
three sticks of the shapes shown in our illustration. The prop
piece is a slender forked twig about ten inches in length from
the tip to the base of the crotch. The spindle is another hooked
twig of the same length: the bait piece is quite similar to the
latter, only an inch shorter and supplied with a square notch at
the tip. It is also slightly whittled off on the upper side to
receive the square of pasteboard or tin, which is to hold the bait
and which may be easily fastened in place by a tack. All of these
twigs may be easily found in any thicket by a little practice in
searching. In setting the trap, it is only necessary to raise up
one side of the coop to the height of the prop stick, insert the
short arm of the spindle through the fork and beneath the edge of
the coop. While holding it thus in position, hook the crotch of the
bait stick around the lower piece at the back of the coop, and
pushing the end of the spindle inside the coop, catch it in the notch
of the bait stick where it will hold, and the trap is ready to be
baited. The bait may consist of oats, wheat, nannie berries or the
like, and should be strewn both on the platform and over the ground
directly beneath and around it. If properly set, a mere peck at the
corn will be sufficient to dislodge the pieces and the coop will fall
over its captive. It is not an uncommon thing to find two or even
three quail encaged in a trap of this kind at one fall, and after
the first momentary fright is over, they seem to resign themselves
to their fate and take to their confinement as naturally as if
they had been brought up to it.
The method of setting the coop trap above described is a great
improvement on the old style of setting, and is an improvement
original with the author of this work. In the old method a semi-circular
hoop of rattan is used in place of the bait stick above. The ends
of the rattan are fastened to one of the lower back pieces of the
coop, and the hoop is just large enough to fit inside the opening of
the coop. This rattan rests just above the ground, and the spindle
catches against its inside edge in place of the notch in the bait
stick already described, the bait being scattered inside the hoop.
When the bird approaches, it steps upon the rattan, and thus pressing
it downward releases the spindle and the coop falls; but experience
has shown the author that it does not always secure its intruders,
but as often falls upon their backs and sends them off limping
to regain their lost senses. By the author's improvement it will
be seen that the whole body of the bird must be beneath the
coop before the bait sticks can be reached and that when properly
set it is absolutely certain to secure its victim. The author can
recommend it as infallible, and he feels certain that anyone giving
both methods a fair trial will discard the old method as worthless
in comparison.
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