The Toboggan Or Indian Sledge
Categories:
THE TRAPPER'S MISCELLANY.
For winter traffic over deep snows there is no better sled in the
world than the Indian toboggan. To the trapper during a winter
campaign it is often an indispensable convenience, and without
it the Indian hunters of the North would find great difficulty in
getting their furs to market. All through the winter season the
various trading posts of Canada are constantly visited by numbers
of Indian trappers, many of whom h
ve travelled hundreds of miles
on their snow-shoes with their heavily laden toboggans. Arrived at
their market they sell or trade their stock of furs, and likewise
dispose of their toboggans, reserving only their snow-shoes to aid
them in their long tramp homewards.
In Canada and northward the toboggan is in very extensive use, both
for purposes of traffic and amusement. It is quite commonly met
with in the streets of various Canadian cities, and is especially
appreciated by the youthful population, who are fond of coasting
over the crust of snow. For this purpose there is no other sled
like it, and a toboggan of the size we shall describe will easily
accommodate two or three boys, and will glide over a crust of snow
with great ease and rapidity. To the trapper it is especially valuable
for all purposes of transportation. The flat bottom rests upon
the surface of the snow, and the weight being thus distributed
a load of two or three hundred pounds will often make but little
impression and can be drawn with marvellous ease. Our illustration
gives a very clear idea of the sled, and it can be made in the
following way: the first requisite is a board about eight feet
in length and sixteen or more inches in width. Such a board may
be procured at any saw mill. Oak is the best wood for the purpose,
although hickory, basswood or ash will do excellently. It should
be planed or sawed to a thickness of about a third of an inch,
and should be free from knots. If a single board of the required
width is not easily found, two boards may be used, and secured
side by side by three cleats, one at each end and the other in
the middle, using wrought nails and clinching them deeply into the
board on the under side. The single board is much to be preferred,
if it can be had. The next requisites are seven or eight wooden
cross-pieces of a length equivalent to the width of the board.
Four old broom-sticks, cut in the required lengths, will answer
this purpose perfectly, and if these are not at hand other sticks
of similar dimensions should be used. Two side pieces are next
needed. These should be about five feet in length, and in thickness
exactly similar to the cross pieces. Next procure a few pairs of
leather shoe-strings or some strips of tough calf skin. With these
in readiness we may now commence the work of putting the parts
together. Begin by laying the cross pieces at equal distances along
the board; across these and near their ends lay the two side pieces,
as seen in the illustration. By the aid of a gimlet or awl, four
holes should now be made through the board, beneath the end of each
cross piece, and also directly under the side piece. It is well to
mark with a pencil, the various points for the holes, after which
the sticks can be removed and the work much more easily performed.
The four holes should be about an inch apart, or so disposed as to
mark the four corners of a square inch. It is also necessary to
make other holes along the length of the cross pieces, as seen
in the illustration. The line on these can also be marked with
the pencil across the board, and the holes made afterwards. These
should also be an inch apart, and only two in number at each point,
one on each side of the stick. When all the holes are made the
board should be turned over, in order to complete preparations
on the other side. The object of these various holes is for the
passage of the leather shoe-strings for the purpose of securing
the cross pieces firmly to the board. In order to prevent these
loops from wearing off on the under side, small grooves should next
be made connecting the holes beneath, thus allowing the leather
string to sink into the wood, where it is securely protected from
injury. A narrow chisel is the best tool for this purpose, the making
of the grooves being much more easily and perfectly accomplished
with this than with the jack-knife. When the under side is thus
finished the board may be turned over and the cross pieces and
sides again arranged in place as already described. Secure the
pieces to the board by the leather strings through the various
holes, always knotting on the upper surface, and taking care that
the knots are firmly tied. The ends of all the cross pieces will
require a double cross stitch through the four holes beneath, in
order to secure the side pieces as well. This is plainly shown in
the small diagram (a). The front end of each side piece underneath
should now be sharpened to a point, to allow for the bend at the
front of the toboggan. The cross piece at this end should be secured
to the under side of the board, so that as it bends over it will
appear on the upper edge, as our illustration shows. The board should
next be bent with a graceful curve, and thus held in position by a
rope or strip of leather at each extremity of the end cross piece and
attached to the ends of the third cross piece, as seen in the engraving.
If the bending is difficult and there is danger of breaking the board,
the application of boiling water will render it pliable. The draw
strings should then be attached to the ends of the second cross piece,
and our toboggan is now complete.
It may now be laden with two or three hundred pounds of merchandize
and will be found to draw over the surface of the snow with perfect
ease. For coasting over the crust there is nothing like it. Such a
toboggan as we have described will easily accommodate three boys,
the one at the stern being provided with a sharp stick for steering,
and the front occupant holding firmly to the draw strings. The
toboggan is easily made, and will do good service either for traffic
or sport.